Earlier this week I had a plumber rough in valve/piping for a shower renovation. Since then, I have decided to go back and redo the walls (long, long story) and, as a result, the final finished wall will be 1/4" thinner. I know for a fact that this change will leave the nipple of the tub spout exposed by roughly that difference. The shower valve should be ok, but I won't know for sure until tiling is complete.
Rather than calling the plumber back to redo the spout (and possibly the entire valve!), I would like to place 1/4" shims behind the straps that are securing the pipes to the blocking. My question is this: Can the copper pipes and soldered joints handle the very slight amount of pressure needed to shim the plumbing back that 1/4" or is it essential that the plumbing is secured as it would normally rest?
You are fine. Copper is pretty pliable and one soft metal. I am assuming that this branch is already working and capped. So if you do have any issues you should know right away. Also I would tell the plumber what you did so he isn't pulling out his hair if something goes wrong.
look at the wind instrument within your home, like the pipes resulting in the room faucet or the pipe that results in your internal stop-tap (usually below the room sink).Unpainted lead copper pipes area unit boring gray and soft.
Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than the now-banned lead-based solder. MAPP gas torches burn hotter than propane, making them a better choice for modern solder. Five to 10 seconds of heating with a MAPP gas torch is all that's required before you can feed solder into most 1/2- to 3/4-in.